Monday, November 5, 2012

Corn Chowder with Bacon, Red Pepper and Thyme

Corn chowder

We now have both feet firmly planted in autumn around here. The days are getting shorter, we are breaking out the sweaters and scarves and there has already been some snow on the North Shore mountains.

Fall is my very favourite season to cook. There is still plenty of great late summer produce at the farmer’s market that happily sits side by side with the apples, pears, grapes, squash, kale and leeks. Last week was the first week of the Nat Bailey Market and even though it was dark and rainy and cold my Grandma and I still made the trek across town to check out the offerings.

In addition to some concord grapes, Belle de Boskoop apples and heirloom tomatoes I managed to score a few very late ears of corn, some red nugget potatoes and a beautiful red pepper. Once home I grabbed these last three ingredients and snipped some sprigs of thyme from the pot growing on the back porch. There was some turkey stock in the freezer from our Thanksgiving bird, some bacon and cream in the fridge. A warming pot of soup was just minutes away.

If the corn is out of season where you live I would still give this soup a try using a good quality brand of frozen corn. It won’t be quite as good but will still provide a great big bowl of comfort on a cold and rainy fall day.

 

Corn Chowder with Bacon, Red Pepper and Thyme

Recipe is lightly adapted from Jasper White’s 50 Chowders by way of Food 52

4 ears of fresh corn or about 2 cups of frozen corn
4 ounces (113 g) bacon, diced
2 tablespoons butter
1 medium onion, diced
1 medium red pepper, diced
1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, chopped
1/8 teaspoon turmeric
1 lb  potatoes, Yukon Gold or small nugget potatoes, cut into 1 inch cubes
3 cups chicken (or turkey) stock
2 teaspoons cornstarch, dissolved in 2 tablespoons of water
1 cup heavy cream
Fine grain sea salt and freshly ground pepper

If using fresh corn cut the kernels from each cob and place in a bowl. Scrape the cobs with the back of a knife to “milk” them into a bowl. Set aside.

In a large pot over medium heat cook the diced bacon until crisp and golden. Pour off all but one tablespoon of the bacon fat and leave the bacon in the pot.

Add the butter, diced onion, red pepper, thyme and turmeric to the pot and stir well to combine. Season with some salt and pepper and sauté this mixture over medium-low heat for about 10 minutes until the onions are translucent but not brown. Add the corn kernels and their milk, the potatoes and the stock. Turn up the heat and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat so that the soup is at a simmer and cover the pot. Allow the soup to simmer for about 10 minutes or until the potatoes are tender.

Slowly pour in the cornstarch slurry into the pot, stirring well. Continue to simmer the soup until it begins to thicken and then turn off the heat and add the cream. Check and adjust seasonings.

If you are making this soup ahead of time ensure that it cools completely before refrigerating. Also, when reheating ensure that you don’t allow the soup to boil as it will split.

Serves 4.

 

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Wednesday, October 24, 2012

Lunch for One – Quinoa with Chickpeas, Pear, Feta, Arugula and a Pomegranate Vinaigrette

I had the best of intentions. I had hoped to put up a new recipe today. One for a corn chowder that has some bacon and red peppers and potatoes and thyme in it. But today was a bit of a runaway train. Luckily in a good way. I met my friend Cathy for coffee at one of our very favourite places and we talked for hours. How wonderful and just what I needed.

So instead of a recipe I will post a photo of my Lunch for One today. Black and white quinoa with some sliced Bosc pears, chickpeas, sheep feta, arugula and a pomegranate vinaigrette. The recipe is here.

See you tomorrow with the soup recipe.

xo J

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Tuesday, October 16, 2012

Grapes in the Garden

Grapes in the garden

There are so many things that I should be doing.

Making soup for dinner, folding laundry, working on the recipe sheets for this weekend’s class. I should definitely be studying for my French class tonight (where I am, by far, the oldest person in the group…sigh). I also have a ton of emails to return.

But…

Today was the first time we have had sun in almost a week and so in a justifiable act of procrastination I wandered out to see what was happening in the garden.

The apples have mostly been picked and I can start pulling the biggest quince from the branches next week when I have more time. There is one bold blue hydrangea flower nestled in amongst the other dying buds. The leaves on the willow are bright yellow and falling fast.

Then there are the grapes. After such a good long spell of warm weather they have ripened well this year. With all of the rain over the past few days they are starting to split and fall. I grabbed my scissors and my basket and set to work.

It didn’t take too long to get to all of the bunches I could reach. I am not even sure what I will do with them all (any suggestions welcome) but it felt good to put everything on hold for a few minutes, feel the sun on my back and carefully harvest the deep purple and green beauties. Then I procrastinated a bit more by running for my camera and spending some time just photographing them.

In the end, just little break, and time well spent.

xo J

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Saturday, October 13, 2012

Fried Ricotta with a Little Tomato Salad

Ricotta cakes with a little tomato salad

Lately, I’ve become a bit obsessed with making ricotta cheese. You see, every week I get a couple of litres of milk. Raw milk actually and while much of it is consumed in morning coffees or with cereal or by making yogurt there will often be a few cups left. Raw milk doesn’t have the same long shelf life that pasteurized milk does so it needs to be used up within the week.

What started as a way of preserving the milk has blossomed into a bit of a love affair. Making ricotta is so straight forward and takes very little time. You can certainly use any whole milk that you happen to have on hand. Combine it with some heavy cream, buttermilk, a pinch of salt and (perhaps) a squeeze of lemon juice. The creamy, pillowy texture of homemade ricotta is just so different than store bought stuff. And there is a beautiful, ethereal tang from the buttermilk. There are plenty of recipes and even a video or two on the internet if you feel like giving it a whirl.

The great thing about ricotta is that it can be used so many ways. Yes, it is of course great in lasagna and manicotti but is equally at home in a pancake batter and in both sweet and savory tarts. Spread it on garlic toasts and top with some wilted bitter greens.

Here is a great little recipe that takes fluffy, silky ricotta and combines it with some Parmesan cheese, a bit of flour, an egg and some salt and pepper. I like to add in some minced fresh thyme leaves as well.

Fried in a hot skillet with some olive oil these are a bit crisp on the outside, meltingly soft on the inside.

I will often make them for lunch when I am on my own at home but they also work well as an hors d’oeuvres with a small spoonful of the tomato salad on top. It is important to make sure these get eaten while they are still hot from the pan, so cooking these for a large crowd is not ideal.

After all of my waxing poetic about the joys of making your own ricotta these little fritters can certainly be made with store bought ricotta. Just ensure you buy it from a good deli or specialty market where they tend to have better quality ricotta than you will find at the supermarket!

 

Fried Ricotta with a Little Tomato Salad

Recipe adapted from Jamie’s Italy by Jamie Oliver

1 lb (454 g) good quality ricotta cheese
2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan, plus more for serving
1 1/2 tablespoons flour
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, chopped
Fine grain sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 large egg
1/2 lb (225 g) mixed ripe tomatoes
3 sprigs of fresh basil
1 small fresh red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon sherry vinegar
Olive oil

If your ricotta is very wet ensure that you drain it a bit to release excess moisture. Mix the ricotta with the Parmesan, flour, thyme leaves, some salt and pepper and the egg. This can be refrigerated until ready to use.

Chop up the tomatoes and place in a colander to drain for 15 minutes or so. Finely chop the stems of the basil and tear the leaves into rough pieces and add to the tomatoes. Add in the chilli and then season with the olive oil, sherry vinegar and season with some salt and pepper.

Heat a non-stick frying pan over medium heat and add a splash of olive oil. Drop spoonfuls of the ricotta mixture into the pan taking care not to overcrowd the pan. Fry the ricotta cakes for a couple of minutes until they are golden brown and then turn them over allowing them to brown on the other side. Drain on a plate lined with some paper towel and sprinkle with a bit of salt. You can drizzle a little olive oil over the cakes and then grate some Parmesan on the top. Serve at once alongside a bit of the tomato salad.

Serves 6.

 

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Friday, October 12, 2012

Rainy Friday Morning Breakfast

Baked eggs for breakfast

I am generally not that into a big breakfast. A cup of coffee followed by some yogurt and berries or maybe toast with almond butter. But today is different. It is rainy and cold and I have a very busy day ahead.

I spied some leftover San Marzano tomatoes from braising some beef short ribs on Wednesday and there are always some eggs in the fridge.

I simmered the tomatoes with some hot chilli flakes, a good glug of olive oil, a bit of basil. I soaked some rather stale slices of baguette in some milk. I layered these in the bottom of a small cast iron skillet, made some space for an egg in the centre and nestled it in. On top, a bit of Parmesan cheese, salt and pepper. Under the broiler for 5 minutes and then a shower of arugula leaves.

I ate while looking out at the back garden with the coloured leaves that are quickly beginning to fall from the trees.

And now, I’m ready for the rest of the day.

xo J

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Sunday, September 23, 2012

Sunday Lunch for One

Couscous patty with gravlax and a poached egg

Weekends around here are usually about family time. It might not be anything epic (as Max likes to say) but just time spent together. A walk, reading on the couch all together or watching movies.

Today though Glen had to work. Max spent the morning with me at home and then walked over to spend the afternoon with a friend.

And so I was alone. With a dozen loads of laundry to do and a to-do list as long as your arm. Near the top of the list was “clean out the fridge”. And so I did.

I found some leftover couscous with pine nuts and scallions from the cooking class earlier this week. I found some whiskey cured gravlax that I had picked up at the fish store on Friday. There also happened to be a dozen eggs that I had patiently lined up to buy yesterday at the Trout Lake Farmer’s Market. I am not crazy about lining up for things but these eggs are worth it.

Hiding in the very back of the fridge I also managed to find some goat cheese and some arugula.

I mixed a bit of the goat cheese in with the couscous and beat in an egg to help bind it. I heated a pan and dropped in a nub of butter, formed the couscous into a little patty and browned it carefully on each side.

I poached an egg, topped the couscous patty with it and scattered around some arugula leaves. A sprinkle of salt and a few grinds of pepper.

Alone, but not lonely. Settling in at the kitchen island with the sun coming through the open doors which will probably not be open for too much longer. Hungry, then full.

Happy Sunday. xo J

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Monday, September 17, 2012

Peach and Lavender Jam

Jam and Brioche

With the official start of autumn just a few days away I wanted to bid summer farewell with this recipe that epitomizes everything that is wonderful about these last balmy days. There are still plenty of peaches at our local farmer’s market and the lavender continues to bloom in the garden so if you act fast you could still make a batch or two of this jam to stash away for a rainy day.

The peaches have been amazing this year and I have been trying to eat as many of these ripe, late summer beauties as I can. Perched over the sink, peach juice dripping down my hands and off of my chin. I have also been using them in salads with arugula and burrata or grilling them for a simple dessert topped with a dollop of mascarpone cream.

Peaches from the Farmer's market

When I found myself with a bit of a ripe peach surplus after I got carried away at the market I decided it was time to make the annual batch of peach and lavender jam. I have been making this jam for years and the recipe is based on a jar that was given to me by a friend many years ago. It was made by her aunt and I fell in love with the subtle perfume that the lavender lends to the sweet peach flavour. My friend’s aunt would not reveal her recipe so I enlisted the help of my Mom and with a large flat of peaches we peeled, cored and chopped many peaches and tried different ratios of sugar, dried lavender flowers, fresh lavender stems, lemon juice and cooking methods. We used pectin in some batches for others we just slow cooked the peaches to a thick consistency.

Peach jam

Over the years I have shied away from using pectin in any of my jams and just simmer the jams down until they have a consistency that I like. The trade off here is that you don’t have quite as much brightness from the quick cooked fruit but I have come to prefer the more complex and almost caramelized flavour from the longer cooking time.

Lavender for jam

The addition of lavender may strike some as a bit strange, but its role in this jam is one of subtle support, a fleeting ethereal fragrance . The best and most reliable way to achieve this is to steep some dried lavender flowers in boiling water for a few minutes, strain and discard the lavender flowers and add the infused liquid into the peach and sugar mixture.

I have a few lavender bushes in the garden and a couple of smaller plants in pots on my sunny back deck. By mid August, just when the peaches are starting to really ripen, the lavender blossoms start to fade and dry right on the stalks. If you don’t happen to have access to your own plants dried lavender blossoms are often available at the farmer’s market.

Make a few extra jars to give away to your friends and family. Maybe even stash a few away to hand out in the dead of winter. Whenever I spread a bit of this jam on a toasted baguette on a cold, rainy dreary November morning I am immediately transported back to warm and sunny August day. At least for a little while…

Jam!

 

Peach Jam with Lavender

2 tablespoons dried lavender flowers
1/2 cup boiling water
3 lbs (1.3 kg) peaches that have been peeled, cored and chopped
1 1/2 lbs (680 g) sugar
Juice of 1 lemon

Put lavender flowers in a small bowl and pour the boiling water over them. Allow the flowers to steep for about 20 minutes and then strain and discard the flowers. Set the lavender liquid aside.

Combine the peaches, sugar, lemon juice and the lavender liquid together in a large pot and stir well to combine. Bring the mixture to a boil and then reduce the heat to a simmer. Simmer fruit for one to two hours until the mixture has thickened and the fruit has taken on a dark orange colour. Remember to stir frequently to prevent the jam from scorching at the bottom of the pot.

While the fruit is simmering prepare a canner and wash the jars and lids in hot soapy water. Dry completely on a rack and then sterilize them by placing them in a canning pot, filling it with water and brining it to a simmer. Hold jars in water that registers 225 degrees F (107 C) until ready to use.

When the peaches reach the right consistency place the jam in the sterilized jars, leaving 1/4 inch of headspace. Gently tap the jars to release any air bubbles and using a clean, damp dishtowel wipe the rims of the jars and secure the rings and lids.

Place the jars in a water bath of simmering water in a canning pot that is lined with a rack and ensure that once the jars are placed in the canner that the jars are covered by at least an inch of water. Never stack jars as complete water circulation is required for proper sealing.

Bring the water to a boil and process the jam for 5 minutes if using half pint jars, 10 minutes if you are using pint jars. Remove the jars from the canner with tongs and allow to cool completely. Check for proper seals. Any unsealed jars should be refrigerated and used within a couple of weeks. Sealed jars should be stored in a cool, dark cupboard and used within one year.

Makes 8 cups.

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Tuesday, September 11, 2012

Tale of a Plum Tree

Prune plum tart

A few years ago the old gnarled plum tree in the garden stopped producing any fruit. It was so very old and overgrown and I knew it might not make it through another winter.

I missed being able to go out and pick the sweet prune plums it reliably produced each August. I almost missed shooing away the old Italian men who would lean over the fence to pilfer a ripe plum (or five) and smile sweetly at me when I caught them, assuring me that “the owner said I could help myself!”.

What else could be done other than to call the arborist and, upon his recommendation, prune the poor old plum tree within an inch of it’s life.

The tree survived the winter but did not blossom and produced no plums. Same the following year.

This year, however, the tree was filled with fragrant spring blossoms. I held my breath. By late June I could see the baby, unripe plums hanging from the branches. I crossed my fingers.

And now, in early September we have a bumper crop of deep purple beauties that bring such a smile to my face.

We have been eating them out of hand and sharing them with the neighbours. Now it was time for a plum cake. The sweet tart plums combined with a cake spiced with nutmeg and cardamom.

If you happen to have some prune plums on hand and feel like giving this recipe a try you can find it here. This cake is wonderful all on its own but if you feel like gilding the lily you can serve this with a bit of whipping cream that has been scented with some cardamom.

xo J

PS I haven’t forgotten about the peach jam recipe and will post it on Thursday or Friday when I have just a bit more time.

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