Today is the day. At 10:45 am our plane leaves for Paris!
Our very first culinary tour in the City of Light is about to begin.
Sarolta and I are going a few days ahead of the rest of our group to get settled in, make sure we have everything we will need in our rented apartment kitchen, organize our cooking class recipes, buy some ingredients and have a chance to reacquaint ourselves with lovely Paris.
This culinary tour has been a year in the planning, yet I still can’t believe the day is finally here.
We dreamed and planned and organized and recipe tested. Now, our bags are packed and our hopes are high.
We are excited to welcome and meet the 10 women who will be joining us on Friday.
I will be posting recipes, daily highlights (hopefully daily!) and a whole lot of photos here on the site, so feel free to pull up a chair and join us.
We are looking forward to a trip filled with good food and wine, many adventures and a whole lot of laughter.
Only five days to go before we leave for Paris. FIVE days!
While there is still so much to do before next Monday lots has already been accomplished for our upcoming adventure. We have made restaurant reservations, made lists of cooking equipment to take, booked a private bike tour to explore the city and picked up a few treats for our group of lovely attendees.
During this past week we have been refining the menus for our Paris cooking classes and I’ve been testing a few new recipes too. We are trying to keep the menus French in theme, yet flexible so that we can choose the best, seasonal ingredients that Paris, in the springtime, has to offer.
Will the duck breasts look amazing and we will be inspired to sear them off to a beautiful medium rare, thinly slice them and serve them with a orange beurre blanc, an orange and parsley salad and a bubbling dish of gratin dauphinois? Maybe…
But what if the duck legs look even more enticing? Should we confit the legs and use the leftover duck fat to fry some sliced potatoes and then serve a green salad with tarragon, toasted walnuts and a tangy vinaigrette?
What about dessert? Should we roll up our sleeves and make some chocolate truffles by hand? Maybe serve some beautiful spring strawberries with a caramel sauce, black pepper and mint…
Whatever decision we make next week, for our first dinner class in Paris, I will be sure to post a proper photo and the full recipe. Stay tuned…
Two weekends ago I was invited out for dinner at a friend’s house. This may not sound like a big deal but I very, very rarely get invited out for dinner at someone’s home. I used to wonder if this was because I was a lousy conversationalist, didn’t bring the right kind of wine, or perhaps at the end of the evening I left too early (or late).
Finally, I asked a friend and she said, “Well, people don’t want to have to cook for you. They are intimidated to cook for someone who teaches other people how to cook. What if they have a cooking disaster and you are there to witness it, or what if the food just tastes bad? Plus people feel that they have to make something special, not just the same old macaroni and cheese casserole they usually serve when they have friends over.”
The funny thing is that people who love to cook, people who cook for a living, absolutely LOVE it when someone else cooks for them. We understand and appreciate all of the effort that goes into making a meal, from the shopping to the prepping to the setting of the table to the actual cooking part. I happen to love macaroni and cheese and, in fact, will happily eat any dish that is put before me, especially when someone has gone to the effort of inviting me to share a place at their table.
And the idea that people need to “impress” people who cook professionally? Nothing could be further from the truth. If I want a five star meal with a million tiny courses and truffles all over the place I will go to restaurant where they have a kitchen brigade to successfully pull off such culinary feats. But, quite honestly, I’m just not very interested in that kind of fancy schmancy cooking. I crave simpler, thoughtful, homemade meals, laid out on platters and served around a communal table.
Which brings me back to my recent dinner out.
The dinner was held at my friend Natalie’s warm and comfortable home that’s filled with great furniture, cool art, books and flowers and a fire in the fireplace. Some beautiful olives, perfectly ripe cheese and a selection of crackers were laid out on the living room table when we arrived. Sarolta and Cathy, two of my favourite people in my world, were there too. The four of us sat and talked and laughed and nibbled and drank some nice wine. When it was time for dinner we moved into the kitchen so that Natalie and Cathy could pull together a lovely, low key supper in the kitchen.
While Natalie grilled some fragrant, local sausages, Cathy assembled a couple of salads she had pre-prepped. One consisted of silky slices of prosciutto, grilled asparagus and a grainy mustard crème fraîche which was served on a platter to go alongside the sausages. The other dish was the salad you see pictured above and was served as the starting course. It was the perfect start to our very perfect dinner. For dessert we had chocolate tarts prepared by a friend of Natalie who is a budding pastry chef and some peppermint tea.
Since our dinner at Natalie’s I have made the proscuitto salad and served it with some sausages I picked up at the Farmer’s market and I was also inspired to give the crab and avocado salad a go. Stealing bits of inspiration.
I have thought back on this evening a number of times trying to pinpoint why it was so special for me. I loved the meal. I loved the entire evening. I loved that it was relaxed and comfortable and full of great conversation. It was great to be surrounded by good friends.
Most of all it was wonderful to be invited to take my place at the table.
Dungeness Crab Salad with Avocado, Beets, Crème Fraîche, and Lime
3 bunches medium beets
3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/2 lemon
1/4 cup finely diced shallots
3 tablespoons seeded, diced jalapeños
1/3 cup lime juice
2 large avocados
6 small handfuls of arugula leaves
3/4 lb (454 g) cooked Dungeness crab meat that has been carefully picked for stray bits of shell
1 tablespoon chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 tablespoon chopped cilantro
1/2 cup crème fraîche
Fine grain sea salt and freshly ground pepper
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F (205 C).
Trim the beets of their roots and stems and wash them well. Toss the beets with 1 tablespoon of olive oil, sprinkle with some salt and then wrap them in aluminum foil and place on a baking sheet. Place in the oven and roast for 40 to 50 minutes until they are easily pierced with a sharp knife.
When the beets are done remove from the oven and allow to cool. When cool enough to handle peel the beets by slipping off the skins with your fingers and then slice in 1/2 inch wedges. Place them in a medium bowl and toss with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, a generous squeeze of lemon juice and some salt and pepper. Taste and adjust seasoning. Set aside.
While the beets are roasting, combine the shallots, jalapeños, lime juice and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a small bowl and let sit for 5 minutes. Whisk in 1/2 a cup plus 2 tablespoons of olive oil and then taste for balance and seasoning.
Cut the avocados in half lengthwise, remove the pit and peel. Cut into 1/4 inch slices and then season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Fan the avocado slices on one side of a chilled platter or on six individual plates. Place the beets on the other side and arrange the arugula in the middle.
Toss the crab gently with two-thirds of the jalapeño lime vinaigrette, the parsley and the cilantro in a large bowl. Taste the crab and season with some salt and/or lime juice if you like. Pile the crab on the arugula and top with the crème fraîche and a few grinds of black pepper. Drizzle a bit more of the vinaigrette over the avocado.
I have a list of things to do a mile long. In fact, I have several lists. But today I will put these ever present, ever growing lists on the far end of the desk and take a moment to do something (anything) else. I will take some photographs and write a few words. I will take a break.
The last few weeks have been all about trying to check things off of lists. There are things that simply have to get done before we leave for Paris (3 weeks!) and having a list is the only way I can remember what those things are. Sometimes though, it all seems so futile. One thing gets accomplished and then immediately there is another task that needs attention.
I can’t really complain though. Between chores there have been some bright moments thankfully enjoyed in the warm spring sunshine. I have spent more than a few hours in the garden, I have ridden my bike twice, celebrated my Grandmother’s and a friend’s birthday, been invited out to have a wonderful dinner with friends. I baked a cake. I cut branches of quince blossoms and put them in vases around the house. I took some walks with my husband and my son and my dog.
I made some spring pea risotto with crisped slices of prosciutto, shavings of Parmesan and basil oil. This was not on a list, it was done purely for pleasure.
Here is the recipe.
Spring Pea Risotto with Crispy Proscuitto and Basil Oil
For the basil oil:
1 cup packed fresh basil leaves
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
Pinch of fine grain sea salt
For the risotto:
6 slices of prosiutto
3 tablespoons butter, divided
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 clove of garlic, minced
2 shallots, finely chopped
2 sprigs of thyme
1 leek, cleaned well and finely chopped
1 1/2 cups Carnaroli, Arborio or Vialone Nano rice
1/3 cup dry white wine
5 cups chicken or vegetable stock
1 cup (5 1/4 oz/150 g) cleaned fresh peas (or frozen in a pinch)
Zest of 1 lemon (preferably organic or unsprayed)
1 1/2 oz (45 g) grated Parmesan plus more to serve
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley and mint
Fine grain sea salt and freshly ground pepper
To make the basil oil:
Bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil. Prepare a ice bath. Wash the basil leaves and when the water is boiling add the leaves and cook for 15 seconds. Using a slotted spoon remove the leaves and put into the prepared ice bath. Once cooled remove from the water, squeeze out the excess water and coarsely chop. Transfer to the bowl of a food processor or blender. Add the olive oil and the salt and purée until smooth. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and set aside. Basil oil can be made up to 3 days ahead and stored in a airtight container in the fridge.
To make the risotto:
In a pot heat up the chicken stock and keep warm through risotto preparation.
Heat a non-stick frying pan over medium-high heat and add the slices of prosciutto in a single layer. You may want to do this in batches or use two pans. Cook the prosciutto until it is crispy, remove from heatto a paper line plate and when cool enough to handle crumble or coarsely chop. Set aside.
In a heavy saucepan over medium heat, add 1 tablespoon of butter and the tablespoon of oil, then add the thyme, shallots and leeks and sauté until translucent. Add the garlic and sauté for an additional but do not allow to brown or this will impart a bitter taste.
Add the rice and stir to coat, cooking for 2 to 3 minutes. The rice will begin to lightly fry so ensure that you keep stirring it. Add the wine and stir until the liquid is absorbed.
Once the wine is absorbed add 1 cup of the warmed chicken stock and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring gently and regularly until the liquid is absorbed. Continue to add the stock in 1/2 cup increments. When you have 1 cup of stock left add in the peas and continue to cook until the rice is tender but still al dente. This cooking time should take approximately 20 to 25 minutes in total.
Gently stir in the lemon zest, remaining two tablespoons of butter, the parmesan, herbs and season with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat and cover. Allow to rest for two minutes. Discard the thyme sprigs.
Divide the rice into warmed bowl and top with some crumbled prosciutto and some shaved parmesan. Drizzle with the basil oil. Serve.
I’m sorry that it has been a bit quiet around here. With our culinary tour to Paris just six weeks away we have been busy putting together itineraries, and welcome packages and taking care of the many details that need taking care of.
After a whole lot of paper work I am looking forward to the next part of the planning for our trip. It is time to set some menus! I love the process of putting together the pieces of the puzzle that makes a good meal, ensuring that there is a rhythm, that the dishes work together in harmony and that there are plenty of useful techniques for people to learn while keeping things simple enough that people can, and will, recreate similar meals for their own family and friends. I’m also excited and feeling inspired by the amazing ingredients that await us in Paris.
Before I start planning and testing menus I wanted to post a quick recipe that I have been making in my Vancouver kitchen that highlights the last of the winter citrus. Preserved lemons have such a special place in my pantry and making a batch or two of these yellow jewels to have on hand for the months ahead always fills me with a sense of happy accomplishment.
I use my homemade preserved lemons in everything from lamb tagines to chickpea and parsley salads, in vinaigrettes, dips, soups and even pasta dishes. One of my very favourite ways to showcase their salty, briny, citrusy flavour is in a salsa verde with tarragon that pairs perfectly with almost any fish or seafood. You can find that recipe here.
You can purchase jars of preserved lemons in many specialty food shops but they are so inexpensive and easy to make there is no reason not to put up a few jars yourself. They keep for many months if refrigerated and make lovely gifts for the cooks in your life as well.
Preserved Meyer Lemons
You can use regular lemons but floral, sweet, thin skin Meyers work especially well in this recipe. Since it is the rind of the lemon that is used once preserved it is worth seeking out organic lemons. It will take about four weeks of curing before the lemons are ready to use. The longer the lemons are brined the saltier they become so take care to adjust the amount you add to your recipe depending on the age of your preserved lemons.
8 Meyer or regular lemon, preferably unsprayed or organic
1/2 cup Kosher or natural fine grain sea salt
Extra fresh squeeze lemon juice
Place 2 tablespoons of salt in the bottom of a sterilized jar.
Cut the lemons almost all the way through in quarters but keep them attached at the stem end. Gently pry the lemons open and, working over a bowl, tamp a tablespoon or so into each of the lemons.
Pack the lemons in the jar, squishing them down to extract the juice. Fill up the jar with the additional lemon juice to cover the lemons and top with an additional tablespoon or two of salt.
Seal the jar and leave out at room temperature for a day, turning the jar upside down occasionally to help dissolve the salt.
Put in the refrigerator and turn upside down occasionally. Let sit for at least a month before using.
To use the lemons remove from the jar and rinse throughly in water. If the preserved lemons are still quite young you can use both the pulp and the rind but ensure that you discard the seeds. For more mature preserved lemons, use only the rind and discard the pulp.
Today may be the first day of spring but from the weather outside you might not know it. The day started with a ferocious downpour of rain. In the late morning there was a burst of sunshine that lasted until mid-afternoon. During my late afternoon walk with the dog I was once again pelted with rain (without my umbrella) along with some some fierce winds. Hmmm, maybe this is fairly typical spring weather after all …
While I am feeling pretty glad to see the end of winter there will be a few things that I will be sad to see go with the end of the season. Braises and soups, scarves and sweaters, reading by the fire. Happily, there is still an amazing array of citrus fruits that should be around for at least a few more weeks. The last culinary gasp of winter.
My dear friend Sarolta is making a big batch of blood orange “limoncello” this week and we have been eating a whole lot of citrus salads with fennel around here. The Meyer lemons at the neighbourhood grocers are so inspiring and I have plans tomorrow to make a new batch of preserved lemons. I promise to post a recipe for these soon and until then I will leave you with a wonderful tea that I have been enjoying on these west coast chilly (and rainy) afternoons. A lovely and invigorating tisane, no matter what the weather.
Canarino tea (named for the colour of canaries) is an end of the meal staple in Florence. Purists make it with only the peel of lemons steeped in hot water but it is always nice to add a bit of a herbal note with some sprigs rosemary. Fresh bay leaves or sprigs thyme works nicely here too.
The perfect thing, served alongside your favourite cookie, for a blustery, early spring afternoon.
Canarino Tea
2 lemons (I used unsprayed Meyer lemons)
2 sprigs of rosemary
Hot water
Cut the peel from the lemons from top to bottom and place the peels in a teapot. Add a sprig of the herb of your choice. Boil a kettle of water and pour over the lemon peels and herbs. Allow to steep for 5 minutes. Serve.
I arrived home three weeks ago today but my heart and mind are still very much in La Belle France. The transition back to my real life has been a little less smooth than I would have liked but luckily my family has been very, very patient and things are starting to come together around here. Just this week I have begun to feel the winds of change and am excited to see signs of a beautiful Vancouver spring blossoming everywhere.
It is time to say farewell to France (for now) and what better way than to bake up a batch of sweet little donut/cake/muffins that are charmingly called French puffs.
I baked these last Sunday afternoon with the back doors wide open and the sun streaming into the kitchen. I hauled out the stand mixer, set out butter and sugar and flour and eggs and buttermilk and listened to some 1940’s and 50’s French ballads sung by my friend Jill Barber who just put out her first French language album. During my afternoon baking session I missed Villefranche a bit but felt glad to be back in my Vancouver kitchen again.
Are these little puffs really French at all? To be honest, I don’t think so. They may be French in the same way that “french toast” is french (which, by the way, the French call pain perdu and serve for dessert…) but no matter what they are called they are wonderful little bites to eat and share with those you love, wherever you may be.
Nutmeg Scented French Puffs
Recipe is Adapted from Standard Baking Co. Pastries via Sweet Amandine. These are best served warm and the day that they are made. I have read that they can be frozen and then warmed up but have never given this a whirl myself. You will need a 24 cup mini muffin tin to make these.
For the batter:
3/4 cup (170 g) butter, plus more for greasing the pan
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1/3 cup packed dark brown sugar
2 eggs, room temperature
1 1/2 teaspoons pure vanilla
1 cup of buttermilk, room temperature
2 2/3 cups of all-purpose flour
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon ground nutmeg
2 teaspoons orange zest
For the sugar coating:
6 tablespoon butter, melted
1/2 cup of granulated sugar
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
In a heavy bottomed pan, heat the 3/4 cup of butter (170 g) over medium high heat and cook, stirring frequently, until browned and nutty smelling. Set aside and allow to cool to room temperature.
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees (220 C) and butter and 24 cup mini muffin tin.
Whisk together the flour, salt, baking powder, baking soda, nutmeg and orange zest in a large bowl and set aside.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream together the cooled brown butter, granulated sugar and the brown sugar on medium until smooth. Beat in the eggs one at a time and then add the vanilla. Lower the mixer speed to low and add in about half the butter milk and mix well, ensuring that you occasionally scrape down the sides of the bowl. The batter may look a bit uneven or like it has curdled at this point but don’t worry, it comes together at the end.
Still on low speed add in half of the flour mixer and mix until just incorporated and then add in the rest of the buttermilk followed by the rest of the dry ingredients. Mix until the batter is smooth.
Divide the batter evenly into the greased cups of the muffin tin, about 2 heaping tablespoons per cup.
Bake in the preheated oven for 12 – 14 minutes, rotating the tray halfway through the baking time. Bake until the tops of the cakes are firm to the touch, and a tester inserted into the centre comes out clean.
Cool on a rack in the tin for a few minutes.
Meanwhile, melt the butter for the topping and in a separate bowl mix together the sugar and the cinnamon. While the puffs are still warm dip the tops in the butter, one by one, and then gently roll them in the cinnamon sugar. A thin layer of the cinnamon sugar on each puff is what you are aiming for. Transfer to a platter as you finish each one and serve warm!
I can’t believe I arrived home from my trip over a week ago, it already seems like a distant dream…
Thankfully I am finally over the dreaded jet lag and am feeling very much my old self again. It is good to be back in the kitchen cooking for my family, trying out some new recipes and cooking more than a few tried and true favourites.
I didn’t cook a thing while I was away, unless you consider slicing a baguette, slathering it with butter and layering in some french ham “cooking”. No matter, the lack of cooking allowed me some time to take a breather, look around and be inspired by the great ingredients of southern France.
At the local Villefranche markets and the bigger weekend Farmer’s Market in Nice I was excited to see overflowing baskets of lemons and oranges and kumquats with their leaves still attached. The bins of shiny eggplants were a gorgeous shade of purple-black and the piles of fennel, peppers, celeriac, leeks and garlic were inspiring. Bottles of olive oils, jars of honey, dried and fresh herbs, black and green olives were carefully displayed. I wanted a little bit of everything.
And then there were the artichokes. Big baskets of them. Purple tipped and compact, locally grown and advertised as “Artichauts Violets” and costing 1 euro each. When I first spied them I had a pang in my heart, wishing that I had a well equipped French kitchen to whisk these beauties home to and a group of family and friends to cook them for.
A few days after returning home to Vancouver I spotted some baby artichokes at Norman’s Fruit and Vegetables a block from my house. True, they weren’t that stunningly beautiful shade of violet like the ones in Nice but there were lovely and inspiring just the same. I filled up a bag and then another. I headed home and carefully arranged them in a wooden bowl to be left on the counter and admired (like a bouquet of flowers) for a day before setting to work.
Prepping artichokes can seem daunting to some people but really all you need is a bowl of acidulated water, (ie squeeze the juice of half a lemon into a bowl, fill up with some water et voila! acidulated water) a cutting board, a sharp knife, a bit of time, and a bit of patience.
Start by snapping off the dark green outer leaves until you see the inner, tender, light green ones. I know it seems a bit wasteful to ditch all of those leaves but they are simply too tough and fibrous to eat. When you have peeled away and discarded the outer leaves, cut off the top part of the remaining leaves and trim away the dark green outer part at the base. The great thing about baby artichokes is that the choke is undeveloped and therefore edible and so this outer trim of the leaves and stem is all that is needed. Drop each cut and trimmed baby artichoke into your bowl of acidulated water and then move on to the next one. This is meditative work. Enjoy the quiet solitude.
Now, once all of your chokes are trimmed and ready to go you have some options. You can thinly slice them and eat them raw with a citrusy vinaigrette, or you can steam them or roast them but one of my very favourite ways to prepare these is to braise them. Dry them well, sear them off in a hot pan with some olive oil, add in some garlic, then some lemon juice and water, cover and braise for 15 to 20 minutes. To finish them off sprinkle with some sea salt and a shower of chopped parsley and mint. Maybe throw in a pat of butter at the end and another squeeze of lemon.
Serve these braised artichokes with some crusty bread for a simple lunch. I showcased mine in some risotto bianco for a family dinner. These would be equally at home in a simple pasta dish, alongside some roasted chicken or braised lamb or on a platter with assorted roasted and grilled vegetables.
Braised Baby Artichokes with Garlic, Lemon, Mint and Parsley
16 baby artichokes, trimmed and halved
1/4 cup good quality extra-virgin olive oil
Fine grain salt and freshly ground pepper
4 medium garlic cloves minced
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1/2 cup of water
1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1/4 cup chopped fresh mint
Drain the artichokes and dry well using a dishtowel. They are going to be going into hot oil and so they should be relatively dry to avoid splattering.
In a 12 inch skillet heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium-high heat until very hot but not smoking. Add half of the artichokes cut side down, sprinkle with salt and pepper and cook until golden brown 3 to 4 minutes. Flip the browned artichokes over and cook the outside for about 2 minutes more. Transfer to a bowl and repeat with the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil and the rest of the artichokes.
When the second batch has been seared reduce the heat and add in the reserved and cooked artichokes along with the garlic. Reduce the heat to medium and cook, stirring constantly for about 1 minutes until the garlic is fragrant but not brown.
Add the lemon juice and half a cup of water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a low, cover, and simmer until just tender, about 15 to 20 minutes. Uncover the pan, stir in the parsley and the mint and raise the heat to medium. Simmer until any remaining liquid is mostly evaporated which should take a minute or two.
Drizzle some additional olive oil over the artichokes or add a pat of butter and season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve warm or at room temperature.
