A Menu for April
Watercress Soup with Anchovy Croutons and Spring Herbs
Seared Sea Scallops with Cauliflower Purée and a Currant and Pine Nut Relish
Vanilla Semifreddo with Rhubarb Compote
I’m exited to share this menu for April! We are coming out of the depths of winter and happily there are plenty of inspiring ingredients at our local farmer’s markets to help us usher in the flavours of spring. I have been thrilled to see stinging nettles, hedgehog mushrooms, radishes and fiddle heads. Many of the vendors are now offering bags of jewel-coloured watercress and bunches of chives with their pink flowers attached, along with the first stalks of rhubarb.
This month’s menu perfectly showcases some of these early spring arrivals and the flavours are light and bright like the season itself. The menu was inspired by recipes from one of my very favourite cookbooks Sunday Suppers at Lucques by Suzanne Goin. This cookbook is filled with fantastic seasonal menus that and is a constant source of inspiration for me.
Both Diane from Nourishing Vancouver, (my collaborator on this seasonal menu project) and I tweaked the recipes from Sunday Suppers to help streamline the dishes to make them doable for the home cook without sacrificing the bold flavours of the original recipes.
We started with a lovely watercress soup. I am always looking for new way to cook with watercress and this soup is an absolute winner that will become a staple in my watercress repertoire. The colour alone is enough of a reason to make and serve this soup but it also happens to burst with springtime flavour in every spoonful. We both added a potato to the broth to thicken the soup slightly and I topped my bowls with croutons that I seasoned with a compound butter seasoned with anchovies, lemon zest and herbs.
For the main course we wanted to highlight scallops. This dish comes together with ease, especially if you make the pine nut and currant relish in advance. Diane garnished her scallops with a mint and pistachio pesto and some cherry tomatoes which is something I will definitely try next time. The purée of cauliflower is a simple, healthy component that is super quick to make. Just steam florets of cauliflower and then put them in the blender with some olive oil, salt and pepper. I also roasted some of the florets for a colour, flavour and texture contrast on the plate and loved the result. The agrodolce currant relish with pine nuts and herbs works beautifully with the scallops but this would also be lovely on halibut or other white fish The whole dish comes together in about 20 minutes.
Dessert in early spring means rhubarb for me. I grow rhubarb in my garden and am always giddy with excitement when it comes time to harvest the first slender stalks. I am personally not a fan of mixing rhubarb with other fruits, like strawberries, but let your palate be your guide here. You can caramelize the rhubarb for a deeper flavour but I just made a simple compote with a bit of orange zest, sugar and vanilla and it worked well with the vanilla semi-freddo.
I would love any feedback from those of you who are following along and making these menus or the individual recipes at home! Also, any spring favourites that are staples in your kitchen this season?
xo J
Watercress Soup with Anchovy Croutons
Adapted from Sunday Suppers at Lucques by Suzanne Goin
For the soup:
7 tablespoons butter
1 cup sliced yellow onion plus 2 cups diced yellow onions
2 leeks, whites only, sliced
1 carrot, peeled and sliced
2 stalks celery, sliced
1 medium potato, peeled and cubed
1 chile de árbol, crumbled
1/4 bunch of thyme
1/4 bunch flat-leaf parsley, plus 2 tablespoons chopped
A pinch cayenne pepper
5 cups chopped watercress (about 2 bunches,) tough stems removed
2 tablespoons minced chives
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup crème fraîche
1 lemon
Fine grain sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the croutons:
2 cups cubed bread, crusts removed
6 tablespoons butter, softened
1 teaspoon minced anchovy
2 teaspoons finely diced shallot
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon lemon zest
Pinch of cayenne
1 teaspoon minced flat-leaf parsley
1 teaspoon minced chives
Fine grain sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the soup:
Heat a large pot over medium heat for 2 minutes. Add 4 tablespoons of butter and then the sliced onions, leeks, carrot and celery. Stir to coat and season with salt and pepper. Cook 5 minutes and add the chile, thyme and parsley sprigs. Cook over medium heat for 5 minutes until the vegetable begin to caramelize.
Add 10 cups o water and bring to a boil. Turn down the heat and simmer 30 minutes. Stain the stock, discard the vegetables and set aside.
Return the clean pot to the stove and heat over a medium flame for 2 minutes. Add 3 tablespoons of butter and when it foams add the diced onion, cayenne, some salt and pepper. Cook the onions for about 5 minutes, stirring often, until they are translucent and add the stock the potatoes and turn the heat to medium high. Simmer until the potatoes are cooked, about 10 minutes.
You will need to purée the soup in two batches. In a blender, place 2 1/2 cups of the watercress, 1 tablespoon of chives, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley and 1 1/2 cups of the hot stock and potato mixture over the green. Cover and start the blender on low. When the mixture is puréed, add another cup of stock and turn the blender up to high. Add more stock until the soup is a little thicker than heavy cream. With the motor running add in 1/2 cup of cream and check for seasoning. Add a little squeeze of lemon juice. At this point, the soup should have the consistency of heave cream.
Set aside and repeat the process with the remaining watercress, herbs, stock and cream.
When ready to serve, gently reheat the soup over low heat and stir in the crème fraîche. Serve in warm bowls and top with the croutons (recipe follows) and some chopped chives.
For the croutons:
Combine the butter, anchor, shallot, lemon juice, zest, cayenne pepper, parsley and chives in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper.
Heat a large frying pan over medium high heat. Add the butter mixture and allow it to melt. Add in the cubes of bread and toast in the butter mixture until the bread cubes are browned and crunchy. Remove from the heat and drain on a plate lined with paper towels. Garnish the soup with the croutons and serve.
Serves 6.
Scallops with Cauliflower Purée and Currant Pine Nut Relish
Currant and pine nut relish recipe is from Sunday Suppers at Lucques by Suzanne Goin.
You can hold back a bit of the cauliflower florets and toss them in some olive oil, salt and pepper and roast them on a sheet pan in a hot oven (450 F – 230 C) for twenty minutes to garnish the plate if desired.
For the currant and pine nut relish:
1/2 cup pine nuts
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 sprig rosemary
1 chile de árbol
3/4 cup finely diced red onion
1/3 cup dried currants
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley plus additional leaves for garnish
Fine grain sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the cauliflower puree:
1 head of cauliflower, cut into florets
1/4 cup of olive oil
Fine grain sea salt and freshly ground pepper
For the scallops:
18 large sea scallops, cleaned
Fine grain sea salt and freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons of olive oil
For the relish:
Preheat the oven to 375 F (190 C).
Toast the pine nuts for about 8 minutes, stirring once or twice, until they are golden brown.
Heat a small sauté over high heat for 2 minutes. Turn down the heat to medium and add the olive oil, rosemary and chile. When the rosemary and chile start to sizzle, add the onion and season with salt. Turn the heat down to low and let the onions set gently for about 10 minutes, until tender. Transfer to a small bowl to cool and discard the rosemary sprig and chile.
While the onion is cooking, place the currants in a small bowl and cover with hot water. Let the currants soak for 10 minutes and then drain well.
Add the balsamic vinegar to the pan the onions were in, and reduce it over medium-high heat to a scant 1 tablespoon. Stir the reduced vinegar into the onion mixture. Add the toasted pine nuts, currants and parsley to the onion mixture and stir to combine. Taste for seasoning and set aside.
For the cauliflower:
Place the florets in a steamer basket over a pot of simmering water and steam for 10 minutes until the cauliflower is tender. Remove from the basket and place in a blender with the olive oil, salt and pepper. Purée, adding additional oil as needed to reach a silky smooth consistency. Set aside.
For the scallops:
Pat the scallops dry with paper towels and season well with salt and pepper. Heat a large frying pan over high heat for two minutes and then add in the olive oil. Gently place the scallops in the hot pan and allow to sear on one side, without moving them for two minutes until a deep golden brown. Flip the scallops and cook on the second side for a minute or two until just cooked through.
On warmed plates place divide the cauliflower purée and top with the seared scallops. Top with some of the currant, pine nut relish and garnish with a drizzle of good olive oil and the parsley leaves.
Serve at once.
Serves 6.
Vanilla Semifreddo with Rhubarb Compote
Recipe is adapted from Sunday Suppers at Lucques by Suzanne Goin.
For the semifreddo:
1 teaspoon of flavourless oil for greasing the pan
1 1/3 cups heavy cream
1/2 vanilla bean
3 extra-large eggs, separated
1/4 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
2/3 cup granulated sugar
For the rhubarb compote:
1 lb (454 g) rhubarb
1/2 vanilla bean
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup water or white wine
Zest of half an orange (unsprayed)
For the semifreddo:
Lightly oil a 9 inch loaf pan and line it with plastic wrap, tucking the wrap into the corners, smoothing it out completely with your hands. Let the excess plastic drape over the sides of the pan.
In a stand mixer with a whisk attachment whip the cream at medium speed until stiff peaks form. Transfer the whipped cream to a bowl and chill until needed. Wash and dry the mixing bowl and the whisk attachment.
Split the vanilla bean in half lengthwise and using a paring knife, scrape the seeds and pulp into the mixing bowl. Add the egg yolks, vanilla extract and half of the sugar. Mis on high speed with the whims attachment about 3 minutes until the mixture is thick and light coloured. Transfer to a large bowl and set aside. Wash and dry the mixing bowl and the whisk attachment.
Whip the egg whites on medium speed about 1 minute until frothy. Turn the speed put to high and slowly pour int eh remaining 1/3 cup of sugar. Whip on high speed about 4 minutes until stiff peaks have formed.
Fold the chilled whipped cream into the gold mixture. Then gently fold in the egg white mixture, a third at a time. Pour the mixture into the prepared cake pan and tap on the counter a couple of times. Place a piece of plastic wrap over the surface, gently smoothing it with your hands. Fold the draping plastic wrap over the edges and freeze for at least 4 hours.
For the rhubarb compote:
Split the vanilla bean in half lengthwise and using a paring knife, scrape the seeds and pulp into a heavy saucepan. Place the rhubarb, sugar, orange zest and water (or wine) into the saucepan. Bring to a boil and reduce the heat to medium low. Simmer for approximately 15 minutes, stirring occasionally until the is soft and beginning to fall apart. Allow to cool before using. May be made up to two days in advance.
When ready to serve take the semifreddo out of the freezer 10 minutes ahead of time. Spoon a little of the rhubarb compote onto six plates. cut six slices from the semifreddo and place them on the plates over the compote. Pass the remaining compote at the table.
Serves 6.
Such a lovely post Julie. The food looks amazing and the photos are perfect.