Just one of the many treasures at the marché aux puces de Saint-Ouen
Yesterday the forecast was for rain, rain and more rain but luckily today there was not a drop in sight. Good weather was just one of today’s highlights.
I started off the day with a trek to the Raspail Bio Market where there were throngs of people and mountains of vegetables/fruits/meats/fish/cheese/roasted chickens/flowers/dried fruits and nuts. There was also a beautiful blue-grey linen scarf that had my name on it. It truly is a thing of beauty…
After my scarf purchase, just as I was leaving the market, I spotted a vendor that I had read about in a couple of guide books. He has a small stall where he sells the most addictive potato and onion galettes hot off the griddle. I joined the long snaking line and bought two that he carefully wrapped in paper for me. One of them I nibbled on the walk home and the second one I presented to my Mom who wolfed it down almost as quickly as I had just moments before.
After lunch we headed out to the Saint-Ouen flea market that my friend Simon had recommended. Just a quick trip on the metro and we were there, pushing through the throngs of street hawkers with their fake Rolex watches and Louis Vuitton bags, then moving through the outdoor stalls with shirts and hats and leather jackets and bags.
Once we finally made it to the antiques section of the market things really started to get interesting. The place is literally filled with unique treasures although my Mom would beg to differ. She just kept referring to the paintings and linens and jewelry and furniture as “junk”. One man’s trash is another man’s treasure or as Mom would say “We buy junk, we sell antiques”. We agreed to disagree on this one and she was very patient as I ran around looking and photographing.
Here are a few things that caught my eye:
Antique spoons tied with purpled ribbon, brightly coloured linens, old typewriters and vintage wine glasses
Brownie camera, champagne coupes on a silver tray, crazy couches and pillows and vintage wine openers
While the flea market was not my Mom’s cup of tea there was still a very bright spot in her day. After dinner out at a local bistro we walked by her beloved bakery that is located right next to our flat. She decided to stop in to buy a slice of Tarte Normande. We had actually been in this bakery earlier in the day to buy a baguette, two madeleine cookies, a lemon tart, and a slice of strawberry mille feuille but my Mom was still pining for an apple custard tart that she had passed over during our first visit. So here we were, back for the second time that day, to buy more delectable french pastries. The man that runs the shop seemed surprised yet pleased to see us again so soon.
When we asked about the apple tart he explained it was called a Normandy tart because it has the addition of a cream custard along with the apples. When we requested a slice he replied, “I am offering you two but will only charge you for one…” And so while the markets were the highlight of my day, an extra slice of a lovely apple and custard tart was definitely the highlight of my sweet Mom’s.
That bakery person is going to be a very good friend by the end of your trip!
Personally, I would so much love to have Happ Hour in Paris with you…a lovely dream…
A Happ Hour in Paris would really be a dream come true! xx J
How I loved the St ouen flea market every week ends! Back to the butter, if you go to a local cremerie where they sell cheese, butter, milk… you will see butter that is not packaged (just a pile i don’t know the word in english we call it une motte de beurre) you can buy by weight and they should have different butter from different regions. Bonne chance! and tell your mom to stop flirting with the patissier!
I can’t wait to go and pick up a few treasure at this flea market next weekend! Thanks for the info on the butter, I will figure out the french that I will need to be able to ask for this at the local cremerie just up the street. I will let you know how it goes! As far as getting my mom to stop flirting with the patissier, bonne chance…
Lets make another visit to the flea market in June; it looks interesting.
Martine is right…..too many visits to the patissier!
Don’t worry Dad, the patissier has nothing on you!
Hope you can make the awesome trip over to see the Moulin-Rouge show.!!!! I have been away from the computer and didn’t realize you, sister, and mom were kicking up your heels in Paris..Lucky you!!! Paris is, what can you say but, PERFECT….
Hi Gail, so nice to hear from you! Yes, the Moulin Rouge show is on our list. In fact, the daughter of a woman who came to one of my cooking classes is one of two Canadians that were chosen to join the dancers that they hired this year so I am going to go to a show to cheer her on!