Sugo Making in Puglia and a Menu for September


A Menu for September
Orecchiette Pasta with Tomato Sugo and Arugula
Grilled Zucchini with Mint and Lemon
Grilled Eggplant with Garlic and Basil
Peaches in Red Wine

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I have now been back in Vancouver for a few weeks after our culinary workshop in Puglia. What an amazing time we had with our small but mighty group of participants who came with such enthusiasm for learning about the culinary traditions in Southern Italy. Our main focus this year was to connect in a truly hands-on and meaningful way with local food artisans and home cooks. Butchers, bakers, cheese makers, farmers, vintners, olive oil producers and foragers and the people who take these raw ingredients and turn them into meals that there serve around their own table to family and friends. People opened up their homes and hearts to us and shared their knowledge and culinary philosophies with such generosity. It was simply a magical ten days.

Eating what is local and seasonal is a cultural tradition in Puglia and not a new, hip, culinary catch-phrase. There is a loose structure to weekly meals that vary slightly but are always rooted in regional ingredients and recipes that have been handed down from generation to generation. This weekly meal plan goes something like this:

Monday – Legumes (lentils, chickpeas, favas, cicerchie) with vegetables. Or leftovers from the Sunday meal.

Tuesday – Pasta with sugo semplice, a simple tomato sauce.

Wednesday – Depending on what the main meal served on Monday this would once again be legumes with vegetables (a different legume, a different vegetable) or vegetables roasted in the oven with bread crumbs, olive oil and herbs.

Thursday – Sugo with sausage. This may or may not be served with pasta.

Friday – Fish! This could be a baked fish al forno with breadcrumbs and herbs or a pasta with seafood (maybe mussels?) or risotto with seafood (maybe prawns?).

Saturday – In winter it is traditional to serve cialledda calda which is a bread soup with vegetables and perhaps a poached egg. A great way to use up any stale bread from the week. A brodo (a vegetable or meat based broth) is also a Saturday staple or in spring/summer a pasta primavera or pasta with a fresh tomato sauce.

Sunday – Pasta al forno graces many Sunday family tables with a roasted meat served as well. Another favourite is a slow cooked tomato ragu with meats such as guanciale, sausage or braseaola. The ragu is served over pasta as the first course. The braised meat used to flavour the ragu is served as a second course.

This weekly menu obviously changes from family to family, season to season, depending on the occasion but I love that there is a starting point when planning out what’s for dinner or lunch each week.

As you can see from the list above tomato sugo is used in many different meals and in many different ways. And while some Italian families buy their jars of sugo from the store just like we do, there is still a tradition that many families embrace, an end of summer ritual of taking kilos and kilos of ripe tomatoes and turning those beauties into the many jars of sugo that can be used during the seasons when ripe tomatoes are simply not available.

This past September we visited the Lomurno family’s country house in Altamura where every year they spend a weekend to preserve the tomato harvest to share with their immediate and extended family. Patriarch Angelo welcomed us warmly and enthusiastically schooled us in the art of making tomato sugo. His daughter Annamaria and son-in-law Francesco patiently guided our group through the process. It was wonderful to see how eager our participants were to roll up their sleeves and taking part is this late summer tradition. To see the love and care and hard work that goes into making sugo was humbling. I don’t think anyone in our group will ever look at a “simple” jar of tomato sauce in quite the same way…

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My September Seasonal Menu is an homage to that beautiful day with such extraordinary people. I rounded out the main course of orecchiette with sugo and arugula with a couple of simple grilled vegetable dishes. Eggplant was grilled dry and then tossed with some extra virgin olive oil that was spiked with finely chopped garlic and a chiffonade of basil. The zucchini was lightly brushed with the olive oil, grilled and then topped with chopped basil and a bit of lemon zest. To keep with the light, fresh summer flavours I chose ripe peaches, quickly blanched to remove the skin and then sliced and macerated in red wine that had been sweetened with some sugar, cinnamon and vanilla.

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This month’s menu doesn’t really require any recipes but if you happen to have some ripe summer tomatoes around and feel like making a fresh sugo or you want to try your hand at making your own orecchiette pasta you can find the recipes here.  My inspiration for the peaches in red wine came from here.

A special thanks to the Lomurno family and to our wonderful group of participants for the magical memories from that sunny, summer day in Puglia.

xo J

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A Seasonal Menu for August

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A Menu for August
BBQ Pork Ribs
Fire Roasted Corn Salad with Tomatoes and Feta
Celery and Radish Slaw with Blue Cheese and Bacon
Potato Salad Vinaigrette with Haricot Verts
Blueberry and Apricot Crumble

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Determined to get up this month’s menu on time! Photos are uploaded and the menu for August is printed. Running around now getting ready to leave for Italy on Friday for our culinary tour and so the actual recipes for this month will have to wait for a few more days. Coming soon!

I hope that everyone is enjoying these last few precious days of summer.

xo J

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A Seasonal Menu for July


A Menu for July

Trout Rillette on Toasts with Green Salad Vinaigrette
Summit Blueberry Tarts

I just arrived home from our three weeks in France where my business partner and dear friend Sarolta and I cooked our hearts out for the Messors Decorative Art Restoration that was held at the inspiring Chateau de Gudanes. As always, I was hoping to have this post up before now but between preparing the kitchen, sourcing ingredients and then cooking for a truly wonderful group of participants who attended this workshop the time for blogging slipped away and so here we are.

I will be sharing my photographs and some thoughts from our time in the Pyrenees in the coming week but first, here is a menu that I worked on with my seasonal menu project collaborator Diane, of Nourishing Vancouver, which is perfect for the summer weather we are finally enjoying here in my home town. Happy to be home and cooking again in my Vancouver kitchen!


I prepared our first course for this menu while I was working at the Chateau with local trout, both fresh and smoked, and used the delicious French demi-sel butter along with some herbs and lemon. Easily made ahead it was wonderful spread on pieces of a toasted, rustic bread filled with seeds and nuts and organic flour made by a local woman Marianne who truly bakes her bread with love and care. All that was needed to accompany it was some salad greens dressed in a simple mustard vinaigrette.


While I was still in Vancouver I made the paella. This is not something that is in my regular repertoire but suggested by Diane and I was so glad for this inspiration! Making paella is very straightforward and the perfect dish to make for a mid-week dinner for family or for a celebratory meal for a large group. In doing some research on this dish from the province of Valencia in Spain I came to understand there are as many versions of paella as there are people who make it. Purists call for it to be made with only chicken and rabbit, perhaps snails, never seafood, and only with a very specific type of rice, Calasparra to be precise. In the end the main focus should always be on the rice and how to cook it to achieve the much sought tender texture and the crispy crust on the bottom, known as socarrat, that is the hallmark of what is ultimately a very versatile dish. I did add seafood and chicken and sausage, seasoning the rice with saffron and pimentón. It may not be entirely traditional but the results were truly delicious.

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Dessert was also Diane’s brilliant idea. This is a recipe that she created while working as a pastry chef a few years ago. Over the years she has tweaked the amount of sugar added to the filling and when we enjoyed it at a dinner we shared before I left on my travels we were all thrilled with the way the sweet/tart flavours of the blueberries and the lemon shine through. This tart is quite straight-forward to make, even for someone like me, who has a slight fear of making pastry. You can find the recipe and the story behind the Summit Blueberry tart over on Diane’s site here.

In keeping with these last few months, I am only home for a few weeks before heading back to Italy to host Kitchen Culinaire’s Culinary workshop in Puglia. There happen to be a few spots left if you would care to join us. It will be 8 days of eating and drinking and hands-on cooking with local people who will open their home kitchens and hearts to teach us how to make the beautiful cuisine of this amazing region.

Until then there are birthdays to celebrate (my sweet son turns 15 this month!), meals to share with friends and family (hopefully al fresco) and planning and packing to do. August’s seasonal menu is on the way.

I hope that you are all enjoying these last precious weeks of summer.






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Seasonal Menu for June

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A Menu for June

Roasted Asparagus with Tarragon Mustard Crème Fraîche and Prosciutto
Seared Trout with Pernod Braised Fennel
Strawberries in Caramel Vinegar with Mascarpone Cream

Our time in Europe is finally winding down, at least until next month!

We have shared some beautiful meals with friends from Canada, France, England, Australia the U.S. and Italy. We have enjoyed glasses of rosé wine, shopped for linens and vintage plates and walked for hours and hours.

I am feeling ready to head home tomorrow to see my family and spend time in my Vancouver kitchen to begin tweaking recipes and menus for the upcoming Chateau de Gudanes Art Restoration Workshop that is being run by our friends at Messors. It will be a quick turn around, just 3 weeks in Vancouver, but hopefully there will be enough time to do laundry, repack the kitchen equipment suitcase and then get back on the plane rested and ready for a new adventure.

For this month’s menu Diane and I had our planning session way back in early May and so what I had thought I would find in the Paris markets has changed a bit over these last weeks. I also envisioned a slightly more formal menu with a somewhat fancy dessert and a more substantial main course but after enjoying some rather rich meals during our time in Paris, something lighter and simpler is what we felt like cooking and eating.

We are in a rented apartment in Paris which is relatively well-equipped both in terms of the pots and pans as well as pantry items. However, as were were heading into our last days I wasn’t wanting to be buying special ingredients that would be left behind upon our departure. This menu allowed me to use what we had in the fridge and the cupboards and required no special equipment to make.

The salad of roasted asparagus with tarragon mustard crème fraîche and prosciutto is the epitome of easy, the components can all be prepped ahead of time and then it is just about assembly. The original recipe calls for grilling the asparagus and for a grainy mustard for the crème fraîche but we had no grill so the oven stood in for roasting instead of grilling and there was tarragon mustard in the fridge and so in was used instead. And, as is so often the case, I ended up loving the flavour of the tarragon mustard and this is how I will make this sauce in the future.


For the main course we had trout, fennel and salted butter in the fridge and the remaining ingredients in the pantry. I absolutely love how meltingly tender the fennel becomes after just eight minutes in the pan and the splash of Pernod adds a second layer of anise flavour. This fennel would be great along side a roasted loin of pork or lamb.


And for dessert? Fresh, fragrant, ripe strawberries that are macerated in a caramel that is made with red wine vinegar. This is recipe I learned years ago when I took a cooking class here in Paris and while it sounds a little strange to put vinegar in a sweet dish it really does work here. The few grinds of black pepper really enliven all of the other flavours. The mascarpone cream is optional but we had some in the fridge from the previous day’s cooking class and decided to garnish the berries with it.

Not at all the menu I had planned but somehow perfect for this last week in Paris.

Before I go back to trying to fit all my treasures into my already overweight suitcase Sarolta and I want to say a huge thank-you to all of the people who came out to share in our cooking workshops here. It was a pleasure and a privilege to cook, eat, learn and share with you!

xo J


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A Seasonal Menu for May

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A Menu for May

Prawn Carpaccio with Prawn and Tomato Oil, Coriander and Lime
Seared Halibut with Salsa Verde and Scafata
Walnut Cake with Crème Fraîche

How is it possible it is already mid June?! I am obviously way, way behind on posting this menu for May but I suppose I just need to adopt the attitude of “better late than never” this time around.

This past month I was in Italy volunteering for my third season with Messors, an organization that runs culinary and shepherding workshops in Puglia. We stay and work in a farmhouse in the country where we cook and eat and learn from people who are passionate about keeping food and cultural traditions alive and sharing them with participants from around the world. Each year I come away inspired by the people that I meet, the food that we cook, the beauty of the landscape and the generosity of spirit of Italians that share their way of life with us.

Being that the internet connection in the country in southern Italy is somewhat spotty and the days are filled with magical activities and often begin very early and continue late into the night there is not a lot of time for blog posting or time on the computer at all. This is another gift from my time in Italy each year. A time to unplug, to live a bit more in the moment, to do just one thing at a time. It does not, however facilitate timely blog posts!

Now I am in Paris, with my dear pal and business partner Sarolta where we are hosting a few cooking classes, meeting with people regarding upcoming potential collaborations in Europe and working on menus and seeking out food inspiration for an upcoming workshop at Chateau de Gudanes that is being organized and run by the Messors team in France in July/August.

My menu for June will feature ingredients that are currently in season in the Paris markets and I promise to have it up before the end of the month.

But now, back to May!


May is the beginning of spot prawn season in Vancouver and so Diane and I decided that we wanted to feature them in this month’s menu. A recipe for a prawn carpaccio with prawn oil, coriander and lime caught our eye. With this starter in mind we decided to keep with the spring seafood theme and cook a halibut with salsa verde and an Italian inspired vegetable ragout called scafata.

Our starter and main were relatively light and so it felt right to round out the meal with a walnut cake that would be anointed with a sweetened crème fraîche.

Before I left for Europe Diane and I got together in my kitchen, tied on our aprons and cooked the halibut dish and the dessert together. While I have made and taught the fish and salsa verde many times before it was our first time cooking the vegetables and the cake. This is a part of my collaboration with Diane that I value the most: to cook a new dish and honestly assess if it works, in terms of flavour, method, seasonality. Where it is easy to honestly critique a dish and not have any preconceived attachment or ideas about if a dish works or not. We played with the vegetables in the scafata and seriously adapted the walnut cake recipe.

We cooked and talked and then photographed our lunch before enjoying the fruits of our labour together. It was a lovely and delicious way to spend the afternoon.

As it was just a bit too early to find local spot prawns in the market we decided to make the carpaccio separately, Diane in her home kitchen in Vancouver and me in my rented apartment kitchen in Puglia. It is here that I must fall on the sword and offer a full disclosure. In southern Italy it was impossible to find spot prawns and so I substituted local prawns caught in the nearby waters of the Adriatic sea. The prawns I found at the fishmonger in Italy were fantastically fresh and flavourful and while I dutifully followed our chosen recipe in the end I was disappointed. I felt the added flavours really just masked the beautiful, fresh flavour of the prawns themselves and the recipe itself was simply too time consuming.

Perhaps Diane, back in Vancouver, had a cook’s intuition about the prawn recipe as she decided to switch gears and make a green gazpacho with grilled spot prawns instead. Smart lady.

I include the link to the prawn carpaccio here for those of you who are interested but I encourage you to visit Diane’s site at Nourishing Vancouver for her gazpacho which looks amazing and something I will certainly be making upon my return home. Diane has also graciously written out the recipes for the halibut and the walnut cake along with her always meticulous notes. These last two recipes are keepers in my mind and so I encourage you to give them a try.

Until our next menu for June, happy cooking!

xo J

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Join Us in Italy

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An Italian Adventure – Come and Cook with Kitchen Culinaire in Italy

Come and explore the many epicurean delights that Puglia has to offer.

Located in southern Italy, Puglia is renowned for its stunning landscapes and local produce. For eight days, we will search out the freshest seasonal ingredients at local markets and visit the shops of artisanal bakers, butchers and cheese mongers in nearby towns and villages. We’ll travel to neighboring vineyards for wine tastings and visit a local bakery, which offers the famous Altamura bread, the only DOP bread in Europe. Puglia is a food lover’s paradise and we look forward to making the most of our delicious daily discoveries! 

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Of course a Kitchen Culinaire experience wouldn’t be complete without cooking. Our time together will be centered around hands-on classes in the kitchen of the elegantly rustic B&B Il Nido dei Falchi located in the historical centre of Altamura in Palazzo Santoro. Designed to be informal yet informative, these classes are filled with lots of laughter and learning. Cheese and yogurt making, Puglian olive oil tastings and pasta workshops focusing on traditional techniques and regional sauces combined with highlighting seasonal ingredients are just some of the culinary components we’ll explore. We’ll enjoy the fruits of our labor with unforgettable al fresco dining in the fields and under the stars… 

We are limiting the number of guests to 14 people. We’d love to have you join us!


Photos courtesy of Melissa Quantz


This 8 day tour runs from September 15th to September 22nd 2016 and includes:

  • roundtrip airport/train station transfers from Bari to B&B Il Nido dei Falchi
  • 7 nights accommodation at B&B Il Nido dei Falchi
  • 7 day guided culinary and cultural tour
  • meals and wine
  • visits to artisanal bakers, butchers and cheesemongers
  • 2 lunch and 3 dinner demonstration cooking classes and lectures including a hands-on pasta making workshop showcasing the typical pastas of Puglia
  • tastings of local cheeses, olive oils and regional wines, including visits to local vineyards to meet winemakers and tour the vines
  • 2 lunch and 1 dinner out to enjoy traditional, regional cuisine
  • day trips to neighbouring towns of Altamura, Gravina and Matera to visit museums, art exhibitions and do walking tours of historical districts
  • entrance fees to museums and sites

Price per person is 2370 euro based on double occupancy, all taxes included.

For additional information or to check availability, please contact us at

To confirm your spot on the tour, a nonrefundable deposit of 20% is required along with your full name and birthdate as per passport. The nonrefundable balance of the tour cost will be due 60 days prior to departure. Travel insurance is strongly recommended.

Travel arrangements by Finisterra Travel – Consumer Protection BC 70260

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A Seasonal Menu for April

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A Menu for April

Watercress Soup with Anchovy Croutons and Spring Herbs
Seared Sea Scallops with Cauliflower Purée and a Currant and Pine Nut Relish
Vanilla Semifreddo with Rhubarb Compote

I’m exited to share this menu for April! We are coming out of the depths of winter and happily there are plenty of inspiring ingredients at our local farmer’s markets to help us usher in the flavours of spring. I have been thrilled to see stinging nettles, hedgehog mushrooms, radishes and fiddle heads. Many of the vendors are now offering bags of jewel-coloured watercress and bunches of chives with their pink flowers attached, along with the first stalks of rhubarb.

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This month’s menu perfectly showcases some of these early spring arrivals and the flavours are light and bright like the season itself. The menu was inspired by recipes from one of my very favourite cookbooks Sunday Suppers at Lucques by Suzanne Goin. This cookbook is filled with fantastic seasonal menus that and is a constant source of inspiration for me.

Both Diane from Nourishing Vancouver, (my collaborator on this seasonal menu project) and I tweaked the recipes from Sunday Suppers to help streamline the dishes to make them doable for the home cook without sacrificing the bold flavours of the original recipes.

We started with a lovely watercress soup. I am always looking for new way to cook with watercress and this soup is an absolute winner that will become a staple in my watercress repertoire. The colour alone is enough of a reason to make and serve this soup but it also happens to burst with springtime flavour in every spoonful. We both added a potato to the broth to thicken the soup slightly and I topped my bowls with croutons that I seasoned with a compound butter seasoned with anchovies, lemon zest and herbs.

For the main course we wanted to highlight scallops. This dish comes together with ease, especially if you make the pine nut and currant relish in advance. Diane garnished her scallops with a mint and pistachio pesto and some cherry tomatoes which is something I will definitely try next time. The purée of cauliflower is a simple, healthy component that is super quick to make. Just steam florets of cauliflower and then put them in the blender with some olive oil, salt and pepper. I also roasted some of the florets for a colour, flavour and texture contrast on the plate and loved the result. The agrodolce currant relish with pine nuts and herbs works beautifully with the scallops but this would also be lovely on halibut or other white fish The whole dish comes together in about 20 minutes.

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Dessert in early spring means rhubarb for me. I grow rhubarb in my garden and am always giddy with excitement when it comes time to harvest the first slender stalks. I am personally not a fan of mixing rhubarb with other fruits, like strawberries, but let your palate be your guide here. You can caramelize the rhubarb for a deeper flavour but I just made a simple compote with a bit of orange zest, sugar and vanilla and it worked well with the vanilla semi-freddo.

I would love any feedback from those of you who are following along and making these menus or the individual recipes at home! Also, any spring favourites that are staples in your kitchen this season?

xo J







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A Seasonal Menu for March

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A Menu for March

Burrata with Peppers in Olive Oil and Capers
Crostini with Cicerchia and Dandelion Greens
Smoked Black Cod with Arugula, Leeks and Potatoes in a Grainy Mustard Vinaigrette
Braised Mint Lamb Shanks with Green Pea Risotto
Olive Oil Chocolate Mousse with Toasted Pistachios

Happy Easter!

I had been hoping to have this seasonal menu up in time so that people could actually try these recipes for their Easter celebrations but life just kept getting in the way. No matter, this menu will be perfect for these final days of March and also for April when early spring often feels more like winter with cool temperatures, brisk winds and plenty of rain.

This is my second collaboration with Nourishing Vancouver’s Diane Owen and to say that I am enjoying the process of working together would be an huge understatement. I am feeling so inspired, and thinking beyond my own cooking experience, becoming aware of my food biases and learning, learning, learning. The added bonus of actually having a monthly deadline to photograph and write is a very good exercise being that I am the Queen of Procrastination.

As we did last month, Diane and I sat down together over a cup of tea and talked about what the month of March meant to each of us food and entertaining wise. We talked about what we crave during this transitional point in the culinary year, ingredients that are available in the market and cooking methods that suit the season.

This month our menu planning was influenced by a dinner that Diane had asked my small company, Kitchen Culinaire, to host for a group of her friends. It was the perfect way to design a menu that would suit the tastes of this particular group and also celebrate the season. Diane was also looking for something interactive at her supper club and so we decided that an olive oil tasting might be the perfect way to start off the evening. From there we needed to decide on a main protein. We agreed that early spring (and Easter) always makes us think of lamb and Diane had a particular mint braised lamb recipe that she was eager to share. Perfect.

As we were starting with an olive oil tasting that would feature the liquid gold made by our Puglian friends, the Creanza family, we thought an Italian menu might be our inspiration for March. A risotto bianco with a nod to spring in the form of peas and pea shoots seemed a perfect accompaniment to the mint brined lamb shanks (cut in the style of Osso Bucco). A olive oil, dark chocolate mousse with toasted pistachios would be a nice, light finish and so now it was just the first course that we needed to nail down.

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Diane had polled the members of her group who would be joining us and there was a request for the first course to include either fish or duck. We decided that duck might be a bit heavy to precede the braised lamb and so set our sights on a first course with a smoked fish component. I remembered a salad that I made countless times when I worked at Lumière restaurant in Vancouver. It was one of the first salads I learned to make at the restaurant and a perennial favourite by the guests there. It pairs smoked black cod, with leeks and baby potatoes and arugula all dressed with a grainy mustard and topped with thinly sliced radishes. A nod to Italy with the rucola (arugula), the west coast of Canada with the black cod and spring with the radishes. Done.

We rounded out the meal with some appetizers that featured the olive oil that we would be tasting at the start of the evening. Burrata flown in from Puglia served with olive oil braised peppers and capers, crostini with cicherccia topped with dandelion greens and a shaving of Parmigiano and pickled mushrooms preserved in olive oil.

The evening arrived, Diane and her husband and their lovely group of friends gathered in the kitchen. We blind tasted two different oils, we nibbled on the appetizers, talked about food and travel and adventures with knives and sipped Prosecco. We served a three course meal in the dining room and everyone seemed to enjoy the meal itself and the time talking and laughing around the table.


The components of this menu worked very well together and much of it could be done in advance. It was also great to be able to tie things together with the theme of the olive oil that was used in every single dish we served. For me the highlight of the meal was Diane’s recipe for the lamb. I had never cooked lamb shanks that were cut in rounds just like veal for osso bucco. I have never brined shanks before (3 days in advance!) and I had never braised meat using just shallots and a puree of mint instead of the traditional carrots, onions, celery etc. I was absolutely thrilled by the way these lamb shanks turned out. Perfectly seasoned, tender, tasting of mint but in an ethereal way. This is not something I would have thought to try and it will now be a staple for me to teach at classes and serve at my own family’s table.

I will be posting the recipes for the black cod salad, braised lamb and the olive oil chocolate here in the coming days. Diane has them up on her site Nourishing Vancouver right now as well as her eloquent words about our menu collaboration and the dinner we co-hosted.

Menu planning for April is in the works. Stay tuned.

xo J

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